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Ice Report

 

WARNING – Please read:

Ice climbing is truly a dangerous activity. Care and judgment born out of experience are imperative. Weather and ice conditions change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.

 

GENERAL SCENE

Sunday evening, 2/19. Interesting weekend. The snow and ice were both fantastic until Saturday, 2/18 when the temps. sky rocketed up to 54 degrees. A ton of snow melted down low and the ice climbs that get sun were hit pretty hard. Sunday was in the 40s. Monday and Tuesday will be back to more seasonable temps. thus these two days will be the best climbing days until the upcoming weekend. Unfortunately, temps. in the 40s will return towards the end of the week. The snow will be corn (springtime conditions) but there is still a lot of snow up high. The ice has been hit but in many places is still fat. It feels like mid March right now…Funny how things can change so quickly – actually overnight regarding the skiing.

 

CLIMBS/AREAS

 

Chapel Pond Region – The Chapel Pond climbs, because they stay out of the sun, remain in good shape. This includes the Canyon climbs, Crystal Ice Tower, Chouinard’s Gully etc. Power Play is also fine as are Lilith and Rhiannon…Hagis is a pure rock climb with no ice at all…

Cascade Pass Region – The Pitch-Off climbs were beat up by the sun Saturday and are snow coneish but climbable. The Quarry is quite thin but can be top roped as of today. Three Flows is shaded and thus fine.  Sister’s Right is thin but climbable while Sister’s Left is actually no longer in. Cascade Ice Dance has absolutely no ice…

North Side of Pitch-Off – Excellent! – Fat ice – the usual climbs are in such as Arm and Hammer, Tendonitis, Central pillar, Weeping Winds and Screw and Climax…

Poke-O-Moonshine – Nothing is safe…

Mineville Pillar – Not safe…

Roaring Brook falls – Day to day…

Multi-Gulley – In

Chillar Pillar – In

 

REMOTE/BACK COUNTY CLIMBS

 

Underwood Canyon – Plenty to climb. The trail was broken out Saturday. It was reported that White Fang was in!

Avalanche Pass – The ice looks very good back there this year. Avalanche Mountain Gully and Adirondike are huge. Many other climbs are in…Could be the place to be this month and next…

Pharaoh Mountain – ? Gets hit by the sun quite hard so the first pitch may be questionable…Can be avoided though…

Gothics North Face – Will be good soon with all the snow and March-like freeze/thaw conditions….

Palisades – ?

Elk Pass – Must be climbable

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