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Ice Report

 

WARNING – Please read:

Ice climbing is truly a dangerous activity. Care and judgment born out of experience are imperative. Weather and ice conditions change hourly and what may appear to be “good conditions” to one climber may not be so to another. Please remember that just because a conditions report says that a particular climb is “in”, each individual is ultimately responsible for making his/her own climbing decisions.

 

GENERAL SCENE

Saturday afternoon (1/21). Conditions are surprisingly good right now. The temperatures are in the 40s today and tomorrow but will be back in the low 30s by Monday. It feels like March but the ice is staying fat and the climbs will be fine for next week (maybe even grow a bit more). Funny story – a free lance writer for a prominent magazine called me as he was writing a story on how global warming affects winter sports. I told him it is hurting the ski industry but in some ways, this freeze-thaw, freeze-thaw cycle often helps the ice grow. Well I guess that didn’t fit in with his article premise and he quickly said thanks and hung up! Anyway, bottom line – the ice is not good in some areas but fat in others…

 

CLIMBS/AREAS

 

Chapel Pond Region – In general, the Chapel Pond area is in good shape. The climbs continue to grow and there is plenty of ice. Most of the standard climbs are fat and practically everything has been climbed. The canyon climbs are in as are Crystal Ice Tower, White-Line Fever, Chouinard’s, the Slab etc. Power Play is getting climbed and is reported to be fine while Big Brother is not quite there yet but has been climbed…The pond is pure ice with no snow on it…Fun to walk on but be cautious near the inlet and outlet…

Cascade Pass Region – Pitch-Off Right and Left are fine as is Three Flows, Sister’s, Cascade Falls and The Quarry.

North Side of Pitch-Off – Fat ice – the usual climbs are in such as Arm and Hammer, Tendonitis, Central pillar, Weeping Winds and Screw and Climax…

Poke-O-Moonshine – I’m guessing that the warm spell this weekend has made it totally unsafe. We’ll see if it bounces back as there is a lot of water around…

Mineville Pillar – Actually had grown and had gotten wider. It still would be a tough lead as the top doesn’t look safe but it could be top roped…

Roaring Brook falls – Day to day. Probably not safe right now…

Multi-Gulley – In

Chillar Pillar – Top ropeable…

 

REMOTE/BACK COUNTY CLIMBS

 

Underwood Canyon – Probably climbable back there based on orientation and its being in a canyon…

Avalanche Pass – Just received a full report. The ice looks very good back there this year. Avalanche Mountain Gully and Adirondike are huge. many other climbs are in…The Matrix is not quite in from the ground up but is close…

Pharaoh Mountain – ?

Gothics North Face – Not in as seen from downtown Lake Placid…

Palisades – ?

Elk Pass – Must be climbable

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